My mother created this take on a classic Thanksgiving side dish. She was not a great cook; she simply did not have the time—a career and six children were her priorities. Cooking was something she delegated, but she took immense pride in doing it herself for Thanksgiving, and we all looked forward to the treat.
Making a traditional sweet potato casserole was too time consuming for my mother, and so she did it her way, creating a cross between classic candied yams and a sweet potato casserole. Smothered in marshmallows, one of my favorite childhood treats, this was an irresistible, sweet, sticky, indulgent side dish. For my mother, the sweeter the better. This adjusted version offers a little restrained sweetness, and just the right amount of buttery flavor with a bit of crunch. You can leave out the marshmallows, but in our home, they are always included.
Many supermarkets use the terms “sweet potatoes” and “yams” interchangeably, although yams and sweet potatoes are two different plants, grown in various parts of the world. The sweet potato is in the morning glory family, while yams are related to palms and grasses. Yams are found in Africa, Southeast Asia, the Caribbean, and Central America. Sweet potatoes are grown in the United States, with North Carolina leading the way. What you are likely buying is an American-grown sweet potato. True yams are imported and a rare find outside of specialty grocery stores. For this recipe, any orange-fleshed varieties like Jewel or Garnet will work well.
Recently, the New York Times shared Timeless Recipes from the Archives, and included sweet potatoes baked with lemon, attributed to a Gage & Tollner’s chef named Edna Lewis. My father’s family frequented this restaurant for three generations, beginning in the late 1800’s, and so I cannot help but wonder if this recipe had an influence on my mother’s creation. My mother liked to bake her potatoes in an old cast-iron pan. She said it was easier as it only requires one oven mitt, not two.
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 38 minutes
Yield: Serves 8-10
